Start your installation by fixing the module in place with a
cable tie and connecting the Red & Black/Black power wires.
A good place to position it is inside the steering column
cowling or behind the lower dash facia where connections can
easily be made to the wiring that goes to the ignition switch
circuits. (If in doubt consult an Auto Electrician about this)
It is very important to connect the Red wire (positive) to a
fused connection that switches off and on with the ignition.
The Black wire (negative) goes to the vehicles earth.
NEVER connect the Red wire before connecting the Black wire
to the vehicles earth.
Select a suitable position and drill a 6.5mm or 1\4 inch diameter
hole for the Led warning light.
Press the plastic bezel into it’s hole and insert the LED into
it from the back, being careful not to push the bezel out.
Remove the radiator cap and undo the clamp on the radiator
hose. Remove the hose from its spigot.
Clean and dry the spigot.
Apply one drop of superglue then place the probe assembly on
the spigot, butting the rubber seal up to the raised end.
Apply sealer along the top and sides of the seal where it meets
the spigot.
The end of the probe should hang down so the shiny end is at
least half-way down across the hole.
Carefully slide the hose back into place, without moving the
probe assembly and fit the hose clamp without
tightening it.
Make sure the clamp is under the black wire, not
on top of it and the screw is to the side of the hose.
It is best to leave the sealer
to cure before tightening the clamp to prevent
it being squeezed out before it has set.
Overnight is best if the time is available,
otherwise try to give it as long as possible.
Do not re-use snap on type clamps. Replace them with good
quality screw type clamps.
Don’t be tempted to over-tighten the clamp. No leakage will
occur as long as the hose and spigot are in good condition,
and enough silicone sealer is used. If it does leak, reseal it
& let it cure over-night and then top up the coolant.
Over-tightening could damage both the probe and the spigot if
it is the plastic type.
Never use 2 clamps over the probe as probe cable insulator
damage could occur on metal spigots.
The probe is carefully designed to change shape to lift the
cable away from the spigot as pressure is applied
by the hose clamp in the normal position.
Run the Black probe wire to the dash board and plug it into the
bullet connector on the Black wire at the module.
Most installers run it through an existing cable grommet in the
firewall.
Try to avoid routing it close to heat sources such as exhaust
pipes or air conditioner pipes, and secure it with the
cable ties supplied.
NOW TURN THE IGNITION ON. THE
ALARM SHOULD SOUND STRAIGHT AWAY.
Start the engine and slowly top up the radiator.
The alarm should stop.
Run the engine and top up the coolant fully after the
thermostat has opened.
Sometimes you may have to do this several times to get rid of
all the air bubbles.
Some cars may
take a couple of days to completely purge all the air out of the
system, especially if the heater core has
been drained.
If air bubbles persist, remove the radiator cap whilst cold,
start the engine and run until fully warm.
Hold the engine at about 1500rpm and top up the coolant. Repeat
this two or three times and replace the cap whilst
the engine is at 1500rpm.
Once properly installed and the cooling system fully bled, the
ENGINE SAVER will beep and the
warning light will flash once when the ignition is first turned
on, as the unit performs it’s self - test routine.
If the unit does not beep and flash on self test, check the
probe wiring or insulation is not damaged and
shorting to earth. The unit will not work if the
probe or wire is grounded.
If the alarm sounds, don’t forget – it is telling you there is
no coolant around the probe – find out why!
Also if you use a radiator sealer at any time it may cause a
false alarm as they can coat the probe with sealer.
We also recommend keeping your cooling system clean and hoses
and radiator cap in good condition at all times.
Most of the problems we hear of are caused by faulty radiator
caps causing coolant not to be sucked back into the
radiator after the engine has cooled off.
It only takes a speck of foreign material to be under the
radiator cap one-way valve (the small disc
underneath) for it not to work.
The next most common problem is the cap on the overflow bottle
cracking and causing the same symptoms.
